Saturday, November 29, 2008

White Thanksgiving!


Several of my friends have alluded to an assumption that Italy has perfect, sunny weather - all year round. This is very understandable. Italy enjoys an association to the dry, mild climate of California, from which we get the term "Mediterranean climate". Popular culture likes to paint a picture of "sunny Italy". Moves range from "Roman Holiday" to "Under the Tuscan Sun". And to be sure, the most stereotypically "Italian" parts of Italy lie further to the south - Capri, Naples, Sicily, where the weather is quite relatively mild and dry.

Milan, in the northern part of Italy, has weather very similar to Philadelphia. It gets about 40 inches of rain a year, has hot summers and cold rainy winters. And it gets about 15 inches of snow a year. I was fortunate enough to witness an early season snowfall - which I photographed on a scenic walk to a Thanksgiving feast that my church generously provided to nostalgic Americans and other curious internationals.

At top - the view from my dorm balcony. Below - tranquil countryside just minutes away from the most industrialized city in Italy. Last photo - smelling distance from Thanksgiving dinner! (and site of a most brutal snowball fight :)








Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Untitled

Alright, there is a reason I am posting this before "The Italian Job: Part Two" - actually, there are three. 1) I don't have all of the pictures of Rome yet, 2) I don't want people reading this post as much, or at least don't want it to be at the top of my blog for too long, and 3) I'm a little ashamed that some of the contents of this post have been flooding around my brain for so long, and I want to get them out of my system so that I can focus on both studying and enjoying my last month in this truly amazing place.

With that said, I want to talk about the following things:

- Travel
- Study Abroad (including Italy, class, language, and more)
- Work
- Friends
- Girls
- Me

TRAVEL

I owe a lot of you a big apology. If I've ever whined about travel inconveniences or disappointments, I am very sorry. I'm ashamed of myself and how narcissistic I have become at times in the last two years. A world at your fingertips does that to you, but that's no excuse. I've justified my immature thoughts and words with myopic emotional appeals - I can't remember how many times I've told my friends, "getting there is only half the battle." It must be such a pain to listen to me at times. A friend of mine who is much wiser than his years unassumingly reminded me of my folly: "but, Andrew, getting there is half the battle." I don't know when I lost my bearings, but I have. Here I am in Italy! ...whining about travel...

Oh, I had my psychological crutches. I had my injuries to which I could boast. I could travel on a shoestring and then look around for a podium to receive my award and give an acceptance speech. I was proud of the fact that I could sleep on plywood, go a day or two without food, or run three miles in place of taking a taxi. I thought myself such the Spartan in terms of travel - yet a Spartan would not notice these things. And a Spartan definitely wouldn't whine (while thinking he was boasting) about these things to his dear friends. But such was my cocktail of pride and narcissism, so that when I did start whining, I'd scarcely noticed.

I recently went to Rome round-trip using Ryanair. I remember vocally whining to my friends about the following things: credit card fees, check-in fees, distance of airports from the cities, ghettoness of the airports, prices in the airports, line to wait in at the gate, the colors of Ryanair's print material, the second-grader font, the website, the flight delays, the non-recline seats, the annoying electronic song that played throughout takeoff/landing, the false advertising regarding ticket price, the ugly flight attendant uniforms, the ugly flight attendants, the kamikaze-style landings, and the general ghettoness/sketchiness/cheapness of the whole operation. Now, a mature person would have just kept these comments to himself, and elected to not fly on the airline again. But no, I had to let the world know (arguably still do). No wonder my friends spoke to each other in Spanish so much.

I was at the tram stop the other day waiting, when I overheard the conversation of some other American exchange students. They were all whining to each other about a million different things - and they never even took a second to stop. Ten minutes waiting for the tram, and then twenty minutes on the ride to our dorm - they never stopped. I could barely stand it - even though I wasn't in the conversation. I thought - how can that be your life?! How can you listen to yourself talk like that? It wasn't long though before I realized that I have done the exactly same thing at times. How can we whine so easily and so obliviously? I don't know, but I do know this - that there is absolutely no reason for it. Don't like the flight? Don't fly that airline again. Don't like the weather? Either go somewhere else or put on an extra coat. Don't like waiting for trams? Then bring a good book or run home. It seems so simple - how have I not seen this until now? Imagine going an entire day without complaining once - would you lose anything? In fact, imagine never whining again ever! Would your life be any worse? Might it even be better? How has this habit so enslaved us? Enslaved me?

The problem with studying abroad is that there is always going to be someone who does it "better" than you. Somebody who has the money, has the time, and has the focus to make the perfect trip every weekend. My friends have left me alone in Milan to visit Ireland, Scotland, Norway, England, Brussels, Paris, Barcelona, Lisbon, Santander, Barcelona, Morocco, Sicily, Capri, Budapest, Amsterdam, Interlaken, Vienna, Prague, Venice, Dubai, Munich, Zurich, Geneva, Poland, Greece, and Istanbul - all places that I would have loved to have gone to. I have made two overnight trips since arriving in Milan - a weekend in Tuscany and Rome each. I will go to St. Moritz for the first weekend in December. I don't know a person who has traveled less than me. The sad irony is how easy it is to forget how lucky I am to be in Milan.

God has blessed me beyond words to describe. With important things - life, family, Him - and not so important things, yet blessings all the same - the privilege to study abroad, friends from all over the world, the ability to fly practically anywhere in the world for just a few hundred bucks. Lord, please help my heart be thankful - I have absolutely no excuse for anything else...ever.

STUDY ABROAD

One thing I'm not looking forward to when I return is the question: "So how was it?" Don't get me wrong, I still want you to ask me it, because I love talking about happy things just as much as people probably like listening to them. However, the question just seems too simple. If you didn't study abroad, I imagine it feels like the awkward, "So how is school?" question you always get from friends and relatives when you come home for break. The question just does not do the subject justice.

Truth be told, I've had experiences that are worth more than money can define, amazing stories, sights, and occurrences that I'd like to relive over and over again. Those cannot begin to be addressed in the question "So how was it?". On the other hand, there are a lot of things that would honest answers to the same question that I have no desire to even think about, let alone address to my listener. Things and choices that you would pay anything to do over again - and not to relive. Eye-opening experiences, lessons in maturity and growing up that make you realize just how blissful ignorance is. Disappointments - too often things that you could have changed. I'm trying to forever let go of some of them in this post.

My biggest disappointments have to my ineptitude regarding immersing myself in the local language, culture, and community. Relationships (community) is a big topic, one that I will hold off for the most part until my section on "Friends". But it is related to the others. I have made one Italian friend. One. Not two. One. And I can barely take credit for it - he mostly reached out to me, a true friends indeed. I think that I have spoken conversational Italian (more than 100 words) three times. I think that is about the number of times I have hung out with Italians in a group setting.

Outside that, I've found my community with internationals: I live in an English-speaking dorm, I take my classes in English, I teach English for a living at an American country, and I go to an international English-speaking church. Now, none of those things are inherently poor decisions - particularly the later ones in the series - but I don't know how it happened, but all of them sort of came together to encapsulate me in the English-speaking bubble that I vowed to never embrace. Sure, I met people from all over the world - I made good friends with Brazilians the first month, hung out with Spaniards in Tuscany, Peruvians in Rome...I was actually very successful at avoiding the "American bubble". Yet, I feel like I have gone to a gelateria and sampled every single flavor but have had far from a scope. I do not mince words when I say that this kills me right now - the number one thing that I wanted in a study abroad experience was an immersion environment. Looking back, sometimes it feels like it would have been better if I went into this particular program with a consumerist, touristic attitude - at least I would have had some better snapshots.

The thing with this disappointment is much of it came from decisions that I made. Nothing can take away from the positive experiences which I have had here, but there are definitely some things that I would have done differently:

If I could study abroad over again...

I hope this comes out right...but I would not have gone to Italy. I would have gone to Spain, or another Spanish speaking country. I was already at an advanced level when I started learning Italian. I thought that the transition would be easy, but learning Italian without mastering Spanish ended up cannibalizing both languages. Now, I had some academic parameters that I needed to fill, and only Madrid offered me what I needed of the Spanish-speaking options. Milan was more appealing than Madrid, so I switched to Italian. However - I recently found out that I had more options than I originally thought. And even if I decided on Italian, I would have elected to reach an advanced level before departing, and I would have registered for classes in Italian. Either way - I would have made sure that I avoided that English-speaking bubble.

Given that I went to Milan, I would not have lived in the Arcobaleno Residence (which I recently learned means "rainbow" in Italian, which I find hilarious). It was the international dorm - and given that it is half an hour from campus and 45 minutes from city center, I severely underestimated the cultural isolation that it caused. At first it was really neat hanging out with people from all over the world, but I never spoke anything other than English, and relationships were always so superficial. Over time everybody sort of started self-segregating into their respective national groups. If I could do it over again, I would have tried my hardest to be a part of a home-stay program, or at least stay in one of the main non-international dorms. It might have been harder at first, but my friends that did that are better off because of it.

Given that I would have brought a higher level of Italian to my study abroad experience, I would have tried to find an Italian-speaking church. I love my current church to death, but I did not come to Milan to go to an American church. Given my circumstances, it was the right decision, and I have made some awesome friendships as a result. However, I feel this is yet another instance where I chose convenience in place of an opportunity to get the most out of my study abroad.

But the biggest thing that I would change is that someway - somehow - I would have tried to befriend Italians, spend time with Italians, get to know Italians. It would have been better if I put in the work to learn more Italian before coming - and I have no one to blame but myself for that. However - even if I brought just basic language skills, that should not have stopped me. The few times I did hang out with Italians I had a wonderful time - they were such friendly, exciting, jovial people. Yet I did not pursue anything - in fact, sometimes I would pull away. I don't know why. The language and cultural barriers intimidated me a bit. I think that is so sad, because that makes me a coward. So here I am with less than a month left in a beautiful country where I barely know the people. Sure, I know that Italians are always late, incredibly friendly when giving directions, smoke a lot, and have an incredibly good sense of fashion. Sadly, I don't know much else.

WORK

Partly because of financial need, partly because I wanted to keep busy, partly because I thought it would look impressive on my resume, I decided to find work when I got to Milan. Not many people do this when they study abroad, so I developed a little bit of pride and a little bit of frustration as a result. With what I knew at the time, I think it was the best decision, and even looking back now I think it will help me in the long run. However, forces largely uncontrollable caused a little bit of trouble for me.

When I accepted the job offer of being a Berlitz English teacher, I was told that I would be working around 20 hours a week, which would have given me somewhere around 3k euro over the course of the semester. It also would have made missing the first week of class for the required training a lot more justifiable. Unfortunately, the reality was that I was not assigned any work until October, and even then only about 5 hours per week - scattered on Wednesday and Friday evenings, and Saturday, blocking out weekend plans. I was told that the financial crisis is largely responsible for the lower demand for language services at Berlitz.

If financial problems prevented me from traveling around in September, much of my lack of travel since then is attributed to work commitments on weekends. To further aggravate things, often my lessons would be canceled up to 24 hours before the fact, in which I would receive no pay, and as a result have no opportunity to reclaim the travel opportunities that I had previously passed up. My October check was a meager 180 euro. November will be a little higher, but not much. I'll probably make about a third of what I was originally promised I would make.

Now, I am thankful for the work I have received and have developed and gained a lot of new skills in my communication, personality, and time management that have more value than a dollar (or euro) amount. The job also looks very good on my resume, currently starved of work experience. I wonder what I would do if I could do it over again, knowing what I know now. Currently, I think that I would have just focused on school, building relationships, and maybe talked to my parents about borrowing money to cover travel. Again, I see this is just another piece of the English-bubble that I built around myself.

I'm elaborating on all of these hindsights for two reasons: 1) thinking them through helps me to make better decisions in the future, and 2) if for some reason there's still somebody still reading this monster of a bore, maybe it will help them too.

FRIENDS

Um, there is a lot that I want to talk about here that I cannot, because this is a public forum. So now that I've thought about, there isn't much for me to talk about. However, in short, I've learned a lot about friends and relationships through studying abroad. I'll talk about two friends that I've met here. And I'll also talk about family.

Gabriele is the only Italian friend that I have. Meaning he is the only person who I can be really honest around, the only person at this point that I will be going out of my way to stay in touch with and visit, and the only person who I make regular attempts to hang out with. He largely went out of his way to befriend me when I went to Tuscany. We share a lot of common interests (skiing, music, etc.) and only speak in English (his is very good, he went on exchanges to Ireland, Australia, and UCLA). He goes out of his way to invest in people - someone I want to emulate.

David is probably my truest friend that is not Italian. He's American, and goes to Emery. We don't have so many common interests, and his personality is much different than mine, but we care about the same things. He's also in two of my classes (which, of course, I did not figure out for the first month or so :). He travels a lot more than I do, but always comes back with good stories that he is able to share with complete thankfulness and humility. He's in Morocco right now, probably camping on the Sahara sand as we speak. He's also Christian, and it shows in his life - he's also someone I want to be more like.

Other people (not all inclusive) that I am blessed to have as friends here include Kenzo (Singapore), Diego (Peru), Adam (Canada), and Vini (Brazil). I have not hung out with several of them enough. A lot of it is my fault.

I have mentioned only guys. I'm learning that it is very difficult for guys and girls to be friends. You can never tell each other everything - there is always, always that conversation between the lines, no matter how platonic you swear to yourself and each other the relationship is. Once we're honest with ourselves, it is impossible to look at or speak with a friend of the opposite sex without at least for some piece of time picturing yourselves together - physically, emotionally, spiritually. For some reason girls like to deny this more than guys do, but it is so painfully obvious nevertheless. Not to say that I don't have good and valued female friends - but it's just not the same, it can never be , and it takes a healthy frame of mind. If you have a really deep friendship with a girl, that's called marriage. Outside of that, it's all just fun and games.

Without going into details, I've learned from being abroad that some friendships (both here and back home) exceed expectations, and others disappoint. Which makes me think of the beauty of family. The blessing and the curse of family is that family is here to stay - and this is mostly a blessing. My cousin is now a father - I got to see the prize little rascal just a few days old via Skype last night. I got to virtually share a Thanksgiving with family through cyberspace. I cannot tell you how happy I felt. I usually pride myself on not getting all emotional about these things, but I can tell you the more I am away from home, the more I value my family - and the more I cannot wait to have a family of my own someday. I guess more than anything, I want to start investing in people - not just experiencing people. I feel like it should not be an either/or situation - God help guide me in finding not the balance but the fusion of the two ends. I think the first step to the process has to be me dying to self a little more.

GIRLS

Oh, girls, such fascinating creatures! They confuse me...I mean, they're just a compilation of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and other material just like anything else...I mean, what's so special about them? What makes them beautiful? I mean, you know that they are. But when asked to describe "why" they are beautiful, it becomes rather difficult. Especially when asked to describe why some girls are "more" beautiful than others, or why some "types" of girls are more beautiful than others...namely Italian girls.

I heard that Italian men are obsessed with American girls, especially the California blonde surfer chick. I guess you always get used to what you have and covet what you don't. I find DEDSI's (dark-eyed, dark-skinned Italians) irresistible. Even the long, distinguished Italian noses are just sooo beautiful to me - they complete an exotic aura, where all the parts come together to create a masterpiece! They dress so well, so sensually modestly - note to Americans: if you think that bare legs/shoulders/belly looks sexy, it definitely is not! And also note, never underestimate the sex appeal of a good pair of boots.

I also found that the girls get better the further south you go. I'm convinced that I saw the most beautiful woman in the world in a bakery in Pompeii. Any attempt to describe her will just end up a miserable fail, so I won't. She was literally numbing - so beautiful that to look at her was literally terrifying! And the weird thing about Italy (for better or for worse - but definitely different) is that it seems that the most beautiful women occupy the most common professions. I could not believe that I saw this one girl in a bakery. Later in Rome, I saw another 10/10 carrying heaving boxes out of a truck on the street for some packing company. Last week, I woke up to this stunning house-cleaner, not more than 20 year old, cleaning my dorm! I don't understand it. There were many times that I thought that I would settle for nothing less than an Italian.

But this was all scenery to me - superficial admiration. I had very little interaction with Italian women. In fact, my interaction with women from anywhere was very shallow and superficial. At one point I think I liked girls from at least ten different nationalities (let me check: American, Canadian, Italian, Brazilian, Mexican, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, Salvadorian...yep, that's enough) at the same time! Well, obviously if you like ten women at the same time, that means that you don't like any of them - you just like women in general. And even if I had opportunities to specialize, what was the point? Oh, yay, in three months I'll never see you again. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense.

My pathetic lack of relationship experience has paradoxically given me a unique, valuable perspective on girls and what they're like and what they want. However, I'm still retarded in figuring out my place in relation to them. I never try to pursue anything because I always have a million excuses not to - does that make me overly patient, overly choosy, or overly cowardly? I have the ability to see incompatibilities before they happen. I just wonder if I'm losing, missing out on a lot by avoiding the inevitable.

At very least, I am getting a very good idea of what I want in a wife - the type of person that I'd fall head over heels for right now, in my mind. She'd have to be a little crazy (to deal with me). She'd love sports, value physical activity, and at very least appreciate music. She'd be spontaneous, insatiably driven to exploration and new experience. She'd be completely confident in herself, too focused on others to ever be self-conscious. She'd be if not smarter or wiser than me, at least wiser than her years - somebody I could lead through emulation. She'd be beautiful beyond description. And she'd be madly in love with God, bent on worshiping him with every breath she takes. (Being Italian is a bonus :)

Maybe my standards are too high. I don't think so - I've met girls that had all of these characteristics collectively - I've even met girls that had most of them, and it near drove me crazy (there's one now that is near everything but Christian - sooo hard). Why shouldn't there be a girl like this in the world? Or, why shouldn't there be a girl so amazing, so compelling that I throw all that stupid list out the window? I think people settle too often. This does two bad things: 1) it doesn't give people their best, and 2) it doesn't make people their best. I want the best. And I want her to expect the same out of me. And I can wait. For her. For me.

ME

I have changed. For the better, and unfortunately for the worse. I wish I could keep the good and get rid of the bad. I told a friend of mine this, and she didn't believe me, asking me to elaborate. It was difficult at the time, but if I break it up into the good and the bad, a few things come out.

The good...

- I have gotten more control over my physical appearance. I am in some of the best shape of my life since I have been eating healthier. My acne is starting it's slow retreat into the photo albums of yesterday. I am putting more effort into personal hygiene and am dressing better to boot (still raggedly by Milanese standards). I'm also not getting sick as much.

- I have had my difficulties, but I at least see the value and am improving in making a healthier daily routine. I often get to bed before midnight. I make virtually all of my own meals. Tardiness - once a chronic infection with me - is making slow but market improvements.

- I am weighing my words more. I don't say things that I regret nearly as often as I used to. I better understand that complete honesty is not a virtual in itself, and that there is a time and a place to say most things, and that some things should not be said at all.

- I feel like I'm chiseling away some of the rough edges of my personality. I can't describe it anymore than that.

The bad...

- I've become more solitary. Not just in the time spent alone. But more in my content when I am alone. And not content in a satisfied sense. But almost content in a preferential sense. Almost a throwback to my days of being ultra-introverted pre-2004. Later in high school and at Penn, I could not say no to a social invite - I jumped on any opportunity to hang out with people. Here I find myself turning down invites to parties, clubs, bars, dinners, and other events - not because I'm unavailable, but because I don't feel like making the effort to go. This makes me very sad. For one, I feel that affiliation with our fellow man is the number one practical calling that God gives us on earth. Secondly, I feel that it was the people and social interactions that made my last years of high school and college up to this point as valuable as it was. I feel like in the moderation of my personality, I'm losing that. I don't want to, but I can feel it happening. Does it have to be like this?

- I feel like I just let time pass with a lot more ease than I used to. A friend of mine said in a blog post how he remembers when he was young, time seemed so slow, so eternal, so precious. And how later in life, it just passes you by without you taking notice. Why is that? I don't want that to happen. I hate it, but it's happening to me. Is not an hour right now just as precious a gift as an hour ten years ago was? Is there not all the more that can be done with it? All the more reason to cherish it? I don't understand, but being stripped from my American home has allowed me the privilege of looking at my life almost from a third party perspective, from the outside looking in. There is so much that I don't like in what I see. And not things of circumstance, of want, of preference rooted in selfishness - but rather things that I can change in myself, my life, my worship for the better - but don't. The sad irony is that my biggest mistake has probably been spending way too much time thinking and way too little time doing. I feel like I've settled with taking the class of life pass/fail - and somehow find myself dangerously close to failing. I now know how much I want an "A", but live like I'm shooting for a "P".

Sooo...

I think I'm done talking now, I've said most of what I want to say. I actually feel a lot better having taken the six hours to write all of that. There's probably no way you've made it this far, but in case you have, I'm sorry for writing such a bummer of a post. It will be the last of its kind. A friend of mine told me that she rarely heard people talk about their honest thoughts in their travel blogs. C0nsider my name cleared of that offense :)

In spite of my crime of over-thinking everything, I'm honestly having an amazing time here: my next couple posts should settle any debate there!

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Rossoneri!



Location: San Siro Stadium, one of the most recognized and storied football venues in the game, home stadium for two of the most successful club teams in the world.

The Match: AC Milan vs. Inter Milan, one of the most recognized derby matches in the world, with more international championships between the two teams than any other cross-town rivals in the world. Needless to say, tensions were pretty high on each side - as evidenced by the uproarious chants and fights put on by the ultras even hours before kickoff.

The Goal: (celebration about half-way through - pretty obvious) Kaka dribbled in from the right corner, crossed a floater across the goal area, and Ronaldino finished with a bullet of a header into the far post. Both players are generally considered to be some of the greatest football players in the world at present.

The "Tomahawk": close to the end, you'll see what appears to be a Seminole-style tomahawk act from the fans. That is not a tomahawk - it is an obscene Italian hand-gesture directed at an Inter player who was sent off late in the second half. Those little punks started playing dirty when they found out they couldn't win, Nerazzurri scum!

My Friends: Diego and David (the cameraman/narrator). All three of us are proud Rossoneri fans!

I'll let you figure out the rest - needless to say one of the best sporting events of my life!

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

The Italian Job (Part I)

Well, a lot has happened, and I'm obviously very bad at keeping an up-to-date blog. This may set the record for longest blog post ever.

I haven't done all the traveling around Europe I had originally hoped for. In fact, I haven't even left the country. However, I have seen a lot of an amazing country! For sake of organization, here is a table of contents of what I will be talking about (roughly reverse chronological order) - feel free to skip around where you like:

- Verona
- Toscana (Firenze, Siena, Pisa)
- Cinque Terre
- Milano

Note: While I'm not absolutely certain of which cities will make up the "The Italian Job: Part II", here is an idea of what to expect:

- Napoli/Pompei
- Roma
- Venezia
- Torino

Verona

Ah, the fair city of Verona, fabled town of Juliet and her Romeo! If you've read earlier, you know that I almost went here to grab Juliet's boob. Now, you can clearly see from the pictures that I did go here and grab Juliet's boob! And I wasn't the only one who wanted to grab Juliet's boob. Ok, this is the last time I will write "Juliet's boob." (I know you were waiting for it ;)


Yes, as you can see, it was a grand time. I was scheduled for work that day, and really bummed when my student cancelled, because then I don't get paid and I waste a weekend (to be vented further down...much further down). BUT...the Lord always does provide, and provideth he didith, as you can see from above! ;-)

Yes, the five fair maidens hither in the picture are, counter-clockwise from stage-right (did you get that?) Annie, Chelsea, Allie, Nathalie, and the immortal Giulietta! They were going on to Venice the next day, but I was already committed at church, so I could only make a day trip out of it.

BUT...a full day it was. I serenaded Annie...



and then monologued to Chelsea...


and then I made out with Juliet.


The ladies in their compelling combination of purity and maturity settled with putting their names with their crushes' on the love wall. Somehow I don't really understand how this works. So...you love somebody so much that you want to have a passionate - if tumultuous - fling that ends in all of two weeks with a dagger to the heart? Hmmm....


Then we went over to the much less-traveled house of Romeo (and, of course, all of these are very real places from real historical events between feuding families in the 16th century...)


You could not imagine the traffic we had to beat off...

Anyway, Verona is so much more than Romeo and Juliet. I'm sure someday I'll figure out what.

Nah, but in all seriousness, pictures. Check them.






Tuscany (Florence, Siena, Pisa)

Ok, there needs to be a warning sign on the entrance to this entire region in general: WARNING: DANGER OF FALLING IN LOVE. PROCEED AT OWN RISK.

Now, I'm not exactly a romantic, lovey-dovey kinda of guy. However, even I had those feelings of "wish I had a girl with me here" at times. Why, HOW? (you might ask...)

Here's one reason:



Here's another...


...and still, another...


...yes, love, it comes in many different shapes, shades, and sizes. I found love most often just walking down the cobblestone streets of these enchanting cities right out of a storybook. There was such a magical presence in the air, a palpable feeling that just around the corner, there would be something that would just take you're breathe away. And every now and then, there was!


But please...believe me! As irreverent as I can sometimes be...


...I really legitimately fell in love with Tuscany, by far the favorite place I've been in Europe. After transportation and lodging, I only had 40 euros to spend the entire weekend. I skipped many a meal so that I could pay to enter the fabulous churches and museums. If you go to Florence, you must see David. Just as you must see the Last Supper if you go to Milan. It will change the way you look at the capacity of art. Just be secretive about any photos you take (note strange man staring at me with condemnation)...


...or, just settle for shots of cheap replicas that - while not a true likeness - can be surprisingly effective at suggesting the real thing...


If you go to Italy (Europe?) at all, make it into every church that you can. Religion might be going the way of the dodo in Europe, however the cathedrals will likely stand for ages to come. A powerful testimony of what art, devotion, and worship can (should?) look like.





There was one church, the Duomo (one in every town) in Siena which had this side room that might be the most spectacular room I have ever been in. I don't even know what it was for, but in addition to having beautiful art on walls, ceiling, and floor, it also had a bunch of hymnals with music written before classical notation was even invented!


Now, I made this trip with about two hundred other exchange students who for the most part were more interested in getting hammered in a new city than checking out Medieval churches and Renaissance art:



Ah, there's a time and place for everything. Well, point being, I didn't necessarily get to see everything that I wanted to see in Tuscany. I didn't go into the world-famous Uffizi gallery in Florence (with the group itinerary, I had to in effect choose between that and David). I also did not sample any "local" cuisine or have any "nice" meal that was more than a 6 euro pizza (which killed my 40 euro budget, btw). I did not go on any wine tours or even sample any of the legendary wines that surrounded me (I bought 2 euro box wine for our Saturday night of mayhem). I scarcely even saw the beautiful countryside, only soaking in samples between winks on the bus ride between Florence and Siena. I didn't make my way to any of the innumerable "secret-treasure" smaller towns, away from the tourists, yet still basking beneath the warmth of the Tuscan sun. So many reasons to go back...

...with a girl!

(and now, I leave you with the sounds of the streets of Florence)



Cinque Terre

Ok, so this was just about the first place that all my friends traveled to while I was still in financial distress and starving to death in my room. But all was not to be lost, because my most loving, caring, wonderful parents were coming to visit me, bringing camera, clothes, and much needed ATM withdrawal card. And, well, they hadn't been to Cinque Terre yet (lit. "five lands"), so I figured that'd be the perfect way to spend a Sunday that I had originally kept available for Oktoberfest until ESN started being dumb. I'm not a stranger to salty water, but it really felt good after being estranged from it for over a month:



Plus, the area was so much more than just H2O + NaCl - the coastline was very dramatic, the air crystal clear, and the five coastal towns in a bubble of perfectly stereotypical Italian culture. Unfortunately, the parentals didn't take too much to hiking, so we only stayed in the first town (Monterosso), but it was great to relax, and we hiked out to a cool point where we could see at least three of the other towns at the same time. Here are some more pictures:






And, of course, there was the quaint little town of Monterosso itself:


And, also of course, as in any Italian village, food is kind of a big deal, hence this giant stir fry pan:


Finally, there's my dear mother and father, who flew all the way across the world to see me (and Italy)! It was really awesome hanging out with them. I feel like they are slowly making the transition to grandparents, and I really cannot describe it in any other way other than a feeling I get. It's kinda weird. And kinda cool at the same time. It was funny, I was able to drink a significant amount of alcohol in front of my parents the first time that evening. Nothing like getting tipsy with your parents on a remote Italian beach resort! Oh, the conversations that followed. I miss them, and as much as I love being on my own, they will never have to nag me to come home.


Finally, a nice little video of a motorboat easing its way into the little harbor for the town, textbook Italy... (note my dad monologuing in the background of whether it will make it or not, lol!)



Milan

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Ryanair

I just bought tickets to and from Rome for mid-November with Ryanair. The were advertised as 10 euros each way, no taxes/tariffs/fees. What a deal! Now, I'm not complaining...but...I'm still allowed to laugh at my order receipt (apparently credit card payment and airport check-in aren't standard features...and aren't optional):

**********

YOUR CONFIRMATION NUMBER IS: XXXXXX

You will need this confirmation number and a VALID ACCEPTED FORM OF PHOTO ID (as detailed below) in order to travel.

ITINERARY/RECEIPT - All times are local.

GOING OUT

From Milan (Bergamo) (BGY) to Rome (Ciampino) (CIA)
Thu, 13Nov08 Flight FR9466 Depart BGY at 21:45 and arrive CIA at 22:45

COMING BACK

From Rome (Ciampino) (CIA) to Milan (Bergamo) (BGY)
Mon, 17Nov08 Flight FR9465 Depart CIA at 20:20 and arrive BGY at 21:20

PASSENGERS

1. MR ANDREW TREES ADT

PAYMENT DETAILS

********20.00 EUR Total Fare

*********2.00 EUR Taxes, Fees & Charges

********12.00 EUR Passenger Fee: Airport Check in

********12.00 EUR Passenger Fee: CC

********46.00 EUR Total Paid

Thursday, October 9, 2008

the right decision

Two weekends ago (yes, it's been a while since I updated my blog) I was faced with a really petty decision that actually made me very anxious because it was choosing between two very good things. Within a couple hours of each other I had made to overlapping commitments for Saturday because I didn't want to miss out! Eventually I had to choose:

Option 1: Day trip to Verona with a Diego, a good Peruvian friend, and four other mutual female friends. While there I would have soaked in one of the more traditional of Italy's many beautiful cities, enjoyed the company of good friends, and gained the good fortune that only befalls those men who grope Juliet's right breast. While I definitely can go to Verona anytime, there was no promising I would, and it's always good to go with friends, and Diego was really hoping I'd come.

Option 2: Excursion with ICM (International Church of Milan) Young Adults (YA) to a ropes course in Lake Como. Awaiting me there was an exhilarating and challenging adventure activity, a great opportunity to invest more time into new friends in an awesome fellowship, and a cozy autumn respite at a young couple's beautiful country villa for pizza, drinks, and hanging out. While I have been on many ropes courses before, this was YA's only retreat for the season, and I my involvement in the fellowship is way too spotty as it is. I had already told two people I was coming, but canceling wouldn't have caused any logistical detriment.

The verdict...





It was the best ropes I'd ever been on, but more importantly, it was one of the best days I've had in Italy (and I've had a lot of fun here)! It's ironic how I'm learning 5000 miles away from my home how important fellowship - in any form - is not only to your faith, but to your general fun in life.

Not that you can't have fun outside of a faith group, Lord no! (lol) You need both. Sometimes I feel that often when I have the choice, I give up the Christian fellowship. And sometimes not even when I must choose.

On a side note, I feel so spread thin here. When I first arrived, it seemed that I needed a lot more than four months to do everything/meet everybody/go everywhere I wanted. One month later, I feel that the problem isn't so much months in a trip. It's smaller, maybe weeks in a month, days in a week, hours in a day. I feel like I could get so much out of singular attention to school, or work, or church, or weekend travel, or friends from school, or cultural immersion, or properly disciplined blogging. Instead, I feel like I'm just getting a taste, a morsel of everything, and somehow all these fractions don't add up to one, leaving me hungry still for something more complete than my "complete abroad experience".

On a note even further to the side, I got a transportation fine which was wrong on every level and that I don't want to or plan on paying. Add that to my outstanding rent payments and the fact that I still haven't even registered for - let alone received - my permit of stay, and that makes me about as illegal as you can be in a country. As fed up as I am with the Italian bureaucracy, you gotta love how slow things move here. I'll be back in American before they ever find me! :)

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Summary Post

I've written four posts on my blog thus far, but they do very little to describe what exactly I'm doing here. In case you're curious...

**********

Arrival
I arrived in Milan on September 1st. I had about a hundred pounds of baggage without wheels that I dragged everywhere. I made my first friend in airport - another exchange student from the States who looked just as lost as I did. Turns out we were staying in the same dorm, so we found our way to it, settled in, and then found our first of many aperitivi. What a great idea - drink and unlimited food for a modest fixed cost.

Money
As many people already know (since I whine a lot), I had a variety of logistical difficulties my first few weeks. Probably the worst was the expiration of my checking card literally the day I arrived. I had no cash or travelers' checks (probably would have been a good idea in hindsight), so I had to do with a lot of begging, borrowing, and being content without. I ordered another card, but it never arrived, so my parents sent me money from my account at home via Western Union, which I collected yesterday. They will bring me a new checking card (and a camera! among other things) when they come visit me next week.

The City
The city of Milan is absolutely enchanting. Cobblestone streets seem mystically laid out as haphazardly as they would have been (and likely were) hundreds of years ago. Architecture is standard European fare - a feast for the eyes of a California not used to seeing buildings ten year old. The heart of the city can be found at Piazza Duomo, a spectacular city plaza with the third largest church in the world and the world-famous fashion districts just blocks away. I walked down one understated street and peered through humble windows into minimalist interior design with the latest from Armani, Prada, and Versace on display. About a kilometer away is a majestic medieval castle with ceilings painted by Da Vinci and Michalengelo's unfinished Pieta on display. Just to the south is a network of navigli, canals ages old that give the feel I'd expect out of Venice. I love walking the city, getting lost on purpose, wandering the streets thinking, "Am I really here?"

The People
As beautiful as the inanimate city is, the people shine brighter. The women are angels. Every time I see a DSI (dark-skinned Italian) pass by me in the streets, I think I melt into the sidewalk and fall in love just a little bit. Everybody is dressed so nicely - I feel self-conscious walking around in public. I've seen more sharp suits on businessmen here than I have my whole life in the United States. The women always cover their shoulders, stomach, and knees, and honestly, it makes the look even hotter (take note American fashion). The Milanese speak with such a clean accent and are more than happy to entertain my feeble attempts to speak Italian. When a beautiful DSI speaks, the Sirens do not compare.

Friends
Oh, gosh, sooo many people that I've met. To early to tell who my good friends are going to be. I feel very spread thin relationally, so I hope that doesn't prevent me from getting to know people well. Since I am in international student housing, I have met people from dozens of different countries. However, I've met surprisingly few Italians. Everybody in my Italian crash course were really cool. I have a good group of guy friends from Brazil named Vini, Pedro, Andrew, Bruno, and others with whom I play football and basketball. I have a Turk friend from Santa Monica who speaks Spanish that loves to surf and ski. I'm planning on also traveling a lot with a friend from Peru named Diego, who also helped me get tickets to the Milan-Inter game. I haven't made good friends with any girls so much, it seems. Jordan Reagan connected me with a friend named Annie from North Dakota who's really cool (and now famous thanks to my previous post). There were two chill Hungarian girls from my crash course, Rita and Katica, that I usually sat next to and caught lunch with. There was a big group of Spanish girls that I toured the city with, but unfortunately I haven't seen them much lately. In general, you just meet a lot of people and can chill out with anybody and it don't matter. There's a good amount of just chilling, talking, and sharing culture. A lot of late-night hangouts-turned-parties with drunken singing/campfire-style guitar.

Church
I found a small but awesome fellowship called the International Church of Milan. The pastor is a personable, solid, Bible-teaching, self-professed redneck who loves God. Everybody at the church is very friendly and speaks English, the two most important requirements. I even have the opportunity to play piano for them some Sundays. The Young Adults leader, Adam, is really cool and goes out of his way to get to each member personally.

Work
When I wasn't in my surprisingly ineffective Italian crash-course, I spent time look for and later training for work. Now I have a really sweet job teaching English for Berlitz Language Center right next to the Duomo. I just finished training, and start working next week, hopefully as much as 20 hours a week. I think most of my students will be businessmen and other professionals looking to refine their English. I now give you permission to start laughing.

School
Oh, yeah, that's why I'm here. Bocconi as a campus is butt-ugly, not to mention a 30 minute tram ride away from my dorm. The Italian student culture seems a little distant and self-contained - the international students definitely travel in packs. Some have told me that Bocconi is considered the Wharton of continental Europe, and it definitely has career services that would compare with Wharton's. However, the rest of the administration is not very user friendly. Regular students all take the same courses at the same time - exchange students don't have a clue about courses until first lecture and cannot drop or add. My courses seem like they are going to be a nice breather from my biology/finance intensive Penn workload:

- International Demography
- Economics of Globalization
- Economics History
- Art and Culture (design section)

Travel
Between school, work, church, and friends, I have a lot going on in Milan. Because of this and money constraints, I might not be able to do as ambitious weekend travel as I once dreamed. This is probably a good thing (see my first post). However, there are a few things outside Milan that I don't want to miss! (hopefully my boss understands)

October 4-6 Oktoberfest!
October 10-12 Trip to Tuscany (Florence, Siena, Pisa)
October 16-19 Surfing trip to Iberia (Barcelona, Northern Spain, Lisbon)
October 26 Chargers vs. Saints in London!
December 5-8 Skiing in the Dolomites

These are activities that I have dates for. I also really want to make it Rome and Venice sometime during the semester. After school gets out, I want to make a quick trip to Monaco and hopefully ski in the French Alps. Then I plan on backpacking for a couple weeks through Switzerland. Hopefully I'll find a way to make all this work.

I love...
aperitivo!
il calcio (the real football, Rossoneri!)
just chilling around Duomo
non-American girls
Italian fashion
that cafe just off the tram-stop
my dorm/room
my job (I get paid to talk)

I could do without...
Nutella! (gosh, it's everywhere here)
Italian bureaucracy
blue-shirt transport officers
PNC (yeah, I know, they're in America, but they deserve to die)
Italian crash course
exchange rate
foreign transaction surcharges

I miss...

California burritos (Rico's, Roberto's, Kotija Jr., etc.)
In-N-Out
PEANUT BUTTER!!! (see my second post)
American girls
American football (GO CHARGERS!!!)
surfing
San Diego sunsets
food carts
Wawa, Qdoba, Greek Lady, etc.
Mexican beer (Sol, Negra Modelo)
Reese's
the guyz house
the girls house
Penn Students for Christ
WPS, swing dancing
Glee Club, singing
piano/guitar
Penn
you

**********

I think that covers most of the essentials. Hopefully many exciting, funny stories to follow! Let me know if there's anything else you want to know about. God bless!

Friday, September 12, 2008

Colpito dal fulmine

Even though I can barely speak it - and even have trouble understanding at times - I am infatuated with the Italian language. Often when people laud this work of art, they refer to its sound. And to be sure, it is music to the ears of an English-speaker imprisoned by the curt, monosyllabic gasps he has been taught to produce and appreciate. I think that somewhere on a scale from angel music to German, the English language leans to the wrong extreme.

However, Italian's beauty is not limited to the tonal ecstasy that has chilled opera houses for centuries, found its way into the language of our modern music, and sent lovers into serenade - singing Andrea Bocelli's "Con Te Partiro" (which beloveds play on repeat) by default.

It is in the grammar. There is something romantic (*snickers*, I swear, last bad pun!) about conjugation -- action and expression directed to the audience, personalized, linguistically reverent. And there is a sensuality to male and female voices dancing on the page as two become one in writing.

It is in the structure. Avoiding much of the narcissism of English, it contently submits to the real, external nature of pleasure. An American speaks like a god and claims "I (do not) like/love" -- that he does or doesn't give his approval to something. An Italian speaks like a creature and claims "mi piace/incanta" -- that something gives him pleasure, enchantment.

It is in the idioms. Now, you could fairly call me out on this and charge my claim as presumptive. To be sure, I barely know the language -- let alone enough idioms to justly compare -- however, one of them in particular has struck me (*more snickers!*, ok I lied).

...colpito dal fulmine...

Literally, it means "struck by lightning", but its equivalent idiom in English would be "love at first sight". The Italian version is vastly superior. The English version may speak sufficiently to what happens to somebody, but it does not even try to describe by metaphor in a few words what one feels. Spoken from a person who has never been struck by lightning.

**********

The sun never came out this morning. And given that I had left the blinds of my east-facing window open, I am surprised that I did not notice that nature's alarm had failed me. Slowly but surely, however, nature's back-up seeped in through the screen door like elevator music. Though such melody was unexpected, I was neither awoken nor entranced. However, the distant, distorted, yet unmistakable beat of a bass drum soon followed, reminding me that I was not there for smooth jazz. The beat defined itself, pulsating into a rhythm that I could feel more than hear. Somewhere in time the crescendo went from curiosity to compulsion, so I gazed into the chamber, tore through the double doors, and took my seat in the balcony. The air erupted into waves of fury that bolted across the amphitheater with a sound so loud that it was blinding. Smooth jazz had given way to orchestral majesty as strings echoed, winds resonated, and brass waited for cue. And there was the conductor - so small, so far away, yet so present, so in control as he maintained perfect organization of mayhem, resolutely waving that invisible rod, delighting in every sforzando. And there were the cymbals - fearsome weapons of war ready to crack the air in two whenever fortissimo wasn't enough. These terrors could terrorize the terror inside of me, and how I loved them. I feasted on every gunshot, counting the rounds off as best I could and eventually realizing my folly - whoever tried to count the notes of a symphony?

As the musical maelstrom continued, I feared for my life. I thanked God for the shelter of the balcony as His chamber raged in front of me. Yet, I could not believe the sensation my soul was experiencing. The realization that I hated my shelter. I hated seeing fear without feeling fear. I hated hearing terror without tasting terror. I was a spectator of the fury, but I wanted to be the target! I wanted to run out into the arena and stick my head right in between the descending blow of the cymbals. As a pouring rain irrigated the spectacular garden of sound, I wanted to be stuck in the middle of it, dripping wet, completely exposed with nowhere to run and nowhere to hide. I wanted to feel the hairs on my neck stand on end as the rubber in my shoes froze to the earth. I wanted my heart to fall at the speed of light into my stomach because of knowing exactly what was about to happen to me at time equals zero. And then I wanted it to shoot up into my throat as sparks fly in front my eyes and I get struck by lightning.

Questa mattina - per la prima volta - volevo essere colpito dal fulmine.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

North Dakota

So I met this girl named Annie today. Two exchanges of particular note, the first being very paraphrased, and the second being very not:

**********

ANNIE -- Really? Is that what Wharton students are generally like?

ANDREW -- Yep...pretty much.

ANNIE -- Gosh, I find that hard to believe, because all the Wharton students I've met are not like that at all.

ANDREW -- Really? How many Wharton students have you met?

ANNIE -- Well, I guess three.

ANDREW -- Who are they?

ANNIE -- Let's see... well you, Jordan Regan, and... is it... Josh Veit?

**********

Annie: well I will cook and you will show up and we'll pinky promise then...?
haha
9:32 PM me: A, B, and C, done!
Annie: NICE
I'm stoked
you have class tomorrow?
9:33 PM me: no, i do not
9:34 PM Annie: what will you do all day?
oh
your interview?
I'm looking at the photo rightnow
you're sooo good looking
fyi
9:35 PM oh shit
sorry
omg
wrong windo
9:36 PM oh my gosh
you probably thought i was crazy
oh my gosh
oh my gosh
9:37 PM i am so embarrassed
oh my gosh
you're both named Andrew
oh my gosh
I am soooooo embarrassed
SORRY!
9:39 PM me: LOL!
what?!
there's another andrew in your life?
Annie: haha
yes
me: who's better looking that ME?!
Annie: and I am talking to both of you in google chat
haha
!!!!
I'm sorry!
me: lol
Annie: you prob thought i was SUCH A creep
9:40 PM me: gosh, that made my day
Annie: looking a good looking photo of you?
haha
thanks
I am mortified